Friday 27 February 2015

MACROBIOTIC STOCKS


The father of modern European cuisine, Auguste Escoffier, began his Le Guide Culinaire with a codification of sauces and stocks - the bedrock of French haute cuisine. Stocks are foundational. This is true in cuisine macrobiotique as well. Stocks are the basis of most dishes and the key to flavour. A wise chef begins here. The first thing to do is to create a basic repertoire of stocks around which everything else is constructed. In macrobiotics, of course, whole grains are the true foundation of everything, and so stocks are relatively less important than they are in the meat-based cookery that Escoffier codified, but it remains true that making stocks is a primary activity for the macrobiotic chef - it is the groundwork for everything else.

In conventional cookery we have beef stock, fish stock, chicken stock, and so on. Animal based. As you'd expect, macrobiotics is different in that it is based upon a range of (mainly but not exclusively) vegetable based stocks. Here, for the record, is a repertoire of the main ones. Learn to make these:

THREE FAMILY BROTH

A vegetable broth using the three main family of vegetables, the celery family, the cabbage family and the onion family.

GINGER BROTH

A broth with intense ginger flavour.

KOMBU BROTH

A subtle clear broth prepared from kombu seaweed (kelp).

MUSHROOM BROTH

The strong flavours of dried shiitake mushrooms.

SPRING ONION BROTH

Essence of spring onions.

VEGETABLE BROTH

A general all-purpose vegie broth from mixed vegetables and kitchen scraps. Similar to, but more ragged than, three family broth. Endless variations.

DASHI

The classic Japanese fish broth using kombu and benito shavings noted for its smokey flavours.

These are the main ones. There are others. I personally include a light chicken stock among them, and a seafood stock prepared from the heads and pieces of prawns etc. I prepare all of these - except dashi - in a pressure cooker. The pressure cooker produces the fullest and deepest flavours - an essential item of equipment in a macrobiotic kitchen, in my opinion. Acquire and learn how to use a pressure cooker.

All of these broths can be enjoyed on their own or, more commonly, with the addition of miso of which there are many different varieties. Miso soup is foundational in itself; it is part of most well-prepared macrobiotic meals, except perhaps in the heat of summer. But miso is not a broth in itself. It is added to one or other of these broths to make a basic soup which usually functions as an entrĂ©e.

Otherwise, one of the most common uses of these broths is as a liquid base for whole grains. Typically, for example, we have precooked brown rice, or millet, or some other grain. It is reheated, ready to eat, in a pan with the addition of a small quantity of stock in which other ingredients, such as vegetables and leafy greens, are simmered as well.

There is the temptation to meld all of these different broths and stocks into one common product. The key to success is to keep them quite distinct. Don't go adding ginger to the spring onion broth, for example. Make the spring onion broth most decidedly onion-y. Make the ginger broth gingery. In any cuisine the chef should labour to create a distinct spectrum of flavours - this is also the case in macrobiotics.

All of these stocks are seasoned with a quality sea salt. As well, I like to add ground black pepper to the all-purpose vegetable stock. This helps to differentiate it from the others. It is more peppery with more complex flavours.

Thursday 26 February 2015

JOHN DOWNES - NATURAL TUCKER BREAD BOOK


Wandering through a secondhand store the other day I picked up an unscuffed copy of John Downes' Natural Tucker Bread Book for the grand sum of $1. What a bargain. This is the third copy of this culinary classic I have owned - I gave the other two away to people who I thought needed them more than I did.

I really had no idea about home baking until I read this book. Downes initiated the sourdough revolution in Australia sometime in the late 1970s. For some time he ran various bakeries and introduced wholegrain sourdough bread to the Australian public - a great achievement. I remain a great fan of Mr Downes. With macrobiotics as his inspiration, he has been a true pioneer in wholefoods in Australia and singlehandedly changed the landscape of Australian cuisine.

It is only a short book. 128 pages. But it is packed with recipes, instructions and advice all replete with the author's undoubted expertise and wide experience. Throughout he is guided by an unerring commitment to classical authenticity and the best of traditions. A sure sign of his expertise is his endorsement of Demeter Brand biodynamic products in Australia. It is remarkable how many wholefood "experts" I come across who do not know the difference between biodynamic quality produce and produce that is merely 'organic'. I take it as a tell-tale sign as to whether someone really knows their stuff or not. Downes clearly does. Australian grown BD flour and wholewheat is a superior product for dedicated home bakers.

This is a great book. Although written long ago it remains the best introduction to homebaking in this country. But its value is not limited to Australia. Anyone anywhere who is interested in genuine bread baking should have a copy of this classic.

Here's the basic leaven instructions from page 40:

INGREDIENTS

2 cups good quality wholewheat flour
3 cups water

METHOD

Mix flour and water into a medium batter. No lumps.

Place in a glassware bowl and cover with a cotton cloth.

Leave for two to five days until bubbles appear and the batter is obviously active.

Mix this with the same quantity of flour and water and let ferment again.

The leaven is now ready to use.

Store in the refrigerator.

Catch a wild yeast. Simplicity.



Sunday 22 February 2015

QUALITY SALT


Salt is a lot more than sodium chloride. If it was just sodium chloride then there would be nothing to choose between different brands. I have encountered this point of view often. People will scoff at the idea that one brand of salt might be better than another and say, "Bah! It's all just sodium chloride anyway!" 

This might be true of standard commercial salt to some degree. Most of them are industrial grade sodium chloride packaged along with free flowing agents, anti-caking agents and other adulterants most of which are by-products of the aluminium industry. Such cooking and table salts are very harsh on the tongue and are indeed essentially industrial chemicals. But in nature there are many different salts and sodium chloride is only one constituent in them. Almost always, sodium chloride is found in combination with a wide range of other mineral salts, and consequently different combinations have different tastes and different properties. Good chefs know their salt. Quality cookery deserves quality salt. The industrial grade stuff won't do. 

The best general purpose salt I've found is macrobiotic sea salt. Locally it is available under the Lotus Brand label. (See picture above.) This is a high grade sea salt that has a complex flavour on the tongue. By analysis it contains magnesium, iron, potassium, calcium and other trace minerals as well as sodium chloride. It is an unrefined sea salt that has been extracted from sea water by the natural processes of sun and wind. The drying process is gentle and leaves about 5% moisture by weight in the finished product. It has no additives whatsoever: no flowing agents or other chemicals. It is slightly grey in colour. It hasn't been bleached. This is always a good sign in salt. Avoid salts that are stark white.

What about pink salts and others? Much depends on where it comes from. Very often novelty salts are just scams carrying a high price. The popular pink salt comes from salt mines in Pakistan and is not really worth the money. It is attractive but it is 99% sodium chloride and is coloured pink by iron oxide. You should certainly question anything labelled "organic" salt! But there are local salts in various locations that may be worth trying.

It is important to learn how to use salt. Many chefs don't know how to do it - they throw in huge handfuls of poor quality cooking salt into just about everything they cook. Salt is used to cover a multitude of sins. Conversely, many health-conscious or science type of people fear it and regard it as a demon based on simple-minded science thinking. In perspective, salt is the most ancient, most traditional and most universal of all flavouring agents in human food - using it properly is a lost art in our times. It is especially important in grain-based diets because it makes our wholegrains more digestible, as well as acting as a catalyst for flavours. It renders food more alkaline. The traditional Japanese diet is high-sodium and yet the Japanese are among the longest lived and healthiest people on earth. Macrobiotics is generally regarded as high-sodium cuisine, but it is undoubtedly healthy, especially regarding cardio-vascular health.

It is impossible to make generalisations regarding salt. Meat eaters generally eat too much common salt - refined from inland deposits - to compensate for high meat consumption. This type of salting is no doubt very injurious to health. Moreover, adding salt at the table, rather than in cooking, has a very different outcome - it is always best to add salt to food during cooking because of the transformations that occur at higher temperatures. Covering food with salt at the table is no doubt a bad business. Then there is context. Salt is best taken, in most contexts, combined with sea vegetable (kelp) or sesame seed (gemasio). It is an art. I will add more posts about salts and using salt in the future.




Thursday 19 February 2015

KALE TEMPURA


A successful tempura experiment. I have, at present, several very healthy and prolific plants of kale growing. My son grows it in abundance somewhat south of here, so I don't usually grow very much. But this year, this spring, I decided to put in some kale in amongst some zucchini plants. As it happens, they have grown very well and keep on putting out. The challenge then becomes what to do with all the fresh kale.

These days, of course, it is a much celebrated leafy vegetable that finds its way into almost everything in the belief that it is some sort of super vegetable. Chefs and home cooks everywhere seem to think it is now necessary to put kale into every dish they make. This is not a bad thing, but I think we should drawn the line at the kale smoothie - the latest in many silly health fads.

The great thing about kale - and the reason for its great health benefits - is that it is relatively close to wild cabbage - i.e. it still contains much of that 'Origin' principle of which Alan Chadwick spoke. It is close to the wild plant and has not been over-bred. In terms of cultivation it seems to respond very well to deep, double-dug beds, liberal quantities of compost and a generous sprinkling of blood and bone. Here it is growing in my summer garden:


Anyway, I experimented with kale tempura. It worked very well. Dip the whole leaf into batter and deep fry. This was a one part white flour/two parts wholemeal flour batter with a dash of sea salt. The batter moves into the many fine crinkles of the leaf and the over-all effect - as numerous people commented when I served them - was like fillet of fish.

I have tried tempura-ing green leafy vegetables before, with varying success. Kale works especially well. A recommended way to add kale to the menu. Serve with a little soy sauce.






Monday 16 February 2015

INCREDIBLE LUNATIC OF THE FUTURE

An Appreciation of the Life and Alchemical Horticulture of Alan Chadwick


We are the living links in a life force that moves and plays around and through us, binding the deepest soils with the farthest stars. 
- Chadwick

Alan Chadwick was born into the 'Old World' of British aristocracy on July 27th 1909 in the town of St Leonards-by-the-Sea. On that day, the Sun and Venus were shining in the proud sign of Leo, the Moon was in mystical Scorpio, Mercury in contemplative Cancer, the malefics Mars and Saturn were in tempestuous Aries, and philosophical Jupiter was in the earthy and practical Virgo. Out of this configuration, a strange and unpredictable fate awaited him. He was destined to become, as the author of Small is Beautiful E.M. Schumacher once called him "the greatest horticulturalist of the twentieth century", a seminal pioneer of American modern organic gardening, an inspiration of what became known as 'California Cuisine' and an exponent of an extraordinary system of "horticultural alchemy" far ahead of its time. 
* * * 

Alan was the oldest son of an illustrious and ancient family with a heritage going back to at least the 1300s. It was a Victorian world of privilege and tradition largely sheltered from the upheavals of modernity. He spent his childhood on the family's large rural estate consisting of manor, farmland, copses and formal gardens. His mother, Elizabeth, however, was an urbane and creative woman with wide interests extending beyond their life of rural comfort. She moved in a circle of intellectuals and artists. She also had deep spiritual inclinations and, like other progressive women of her time, became a member of the Theosophical Society and then, when a split occurred in the Society in 1913, the Anthroposophical Society under the leadership and inspiration of the Austrian philosopher and pedagogue Rudolf Steiner, whom she came to know personally. When Steiner went to England to teach and give lectures, she enlisted him as a personal tutor for her son. This was to be a decisive event in Alan's life. Towards the end of his days he would say that "Steiner planted seeds in me that are germinating still..." The encounter was only brief. It is said that Steiner was "too intense" for him. He never considered himself a devotee of Steiner, but Steiner's influence was nevertheless decisive. Chadwick once said, "I am not a follower of Steiner. I am a child of Steiner". He saw himself and his work as a true and faithful development of Steiner's spirit, and in particular of Steiner's "biodynamic" methods of farming.

It was through Steiner's tuition, too, that the young Chadwick developed a deep interest in literature and theatre. Amongst friends of his mother were such people as T.S. Eliot and George Bernard Shaw. Alan attended public schools in England and Switzerland but was not academically inclined. Tall and athletic, he became a champion skier and ice skater. Also shy, awkward and sensitive, he studied flower painting and watercolour technique as well as classical violin. But the passion that first absorbed him was the theatre. Turning his back on his inheritance, he took to the road and a career as a Shakespearean actor performing with small itinerant theatre companies. It was a career that he subsequently pursued for over thirty years. Gardening was only a side interest in which he found renewal and refreshment, although over the decades he developed a prodigious knowledge of plants and mastered classical horticultural techniques, following such English landscape masters as Capability Brown and Humphrey Repton. Importantly, he also learnt the modern French horticultural method known as 'French intensive gardening' that the French had developed to get them through hard times. This was a method characterized by close plantings to allow for high yields of crops in small areas. Along with Steiner's methods, it was to become a feature of Chadwick's own system that he often called "biodynamic/french intensive".

The outbreak of World War Two brought profound disruption to his charmed life. Although an avowed pacifist and a conscientious objector, he found himself in the British Navy in command of a mine sweeper. Over four years he saw much death and destruction. He described it as a disillusioning experience. "It absolutely capsized my attitude to civilization," he said. By the end of the War "I had nothing left to play, no cards left to play with humanity." By nature he was a socially uncomfortable man. He didn't have a high opinion of human beings and he found the realities of mechanized modernity intolerable. The War hardened his views. At the close of the War he wanted to flee Europe and never return. He headed for South Africa to take a role in a traveling production of 'A Streetcar Named Desire' but even in that his mood was misanthropic. While the rest of the troupe lived in their caravans, Alan would keep to himself, sleeping in a tent pitched far away from the camp. By all accounts, he was a man of broken spirit. He had also injured his back during the War, a calamity for a man who, in his youth, had been so athletic and adventurous. Despairing about the state of the world in the aftermath of the War, he had become a fringe dweller in the strange land of southern Africa.

In was in South Africa, however, that he met a woman who would change his life. Few people ever became close to Alan: he was that odd combination, a performer and a loner. She became his inspiration and his muse. Their relationship was Platonic, but they gave each other comfort and companionship and together hit upon a plan to save the world from the monstrosities of industrial militarism. Her name was Countess Freya von Malkte, the widow of Helmut Malkte, a German army officer who had been executed by the Nazis in 1945 for plotting to assassinate Hitler. When she met Chadwick, Countess von Malkte was mourning the loss of her husband and the devastation of her homeland. It seems that it is she who encouraged Chadwick to move into a career in horticulture. Their response to the post-War impasse was to hatch a scheme to slowly transform the world through ‘gardens of peace’. Through her, most likely, Chadwick secured a job redesigning the Admiralty Gardens in Capetown, his first major horticultural project. Later, she enticed him to follow her to the United States and to take up a position as gardener in a project sponsored by the University of California in Santa Cruz, an opportunity she organized for him. Chadwick had been heading to New Zealand where one of his relatives, Richard Seddon, had once been Prime Minister. Freya von Malkte invited him to the USA. He was reluctant. She persuaded him. He arrived in California in 1967 and it was in America that he was to make his mark.

Coming from another time and place, an aristocratic thespian with a short temper and little time for people, Chadwick was a strange visitation upon a California then in the grip of psychedelia and “Flower Power”. The University garden project was experimental, if not subversive. Amongst academics, it was promoted by Dr Paul Lee, a champion of the vitalist tradition in opposition to the scientific establishment or what Lee called “physicalism”. Lee relates that Chadwick arrived one day, accepted the job, went to the hardware store that afternoon, bought a spade and went to work on an area of destitute land covered in poison oak. Despite his bad back, he worked sunrise to sundown for nearly two years transforming the site into a large organic garden. This “performance”, as Chadwick would call it, soon attracted attention. The garden was not modest or unremarkable. Using his unique synthesis of techniques, he accomplished a many-acre miracle. It was an extraordinary garden, a paradise of vitality. At this time Alan Chadwick was fifty-eight years old. In truth, he wasn’t a great actor. But he was a great, great gardener. At Santa Cruz he came to his calling.

Soon people came to his garden wanting him to explain his methods. To some extent this was an unexpected and unwelcome development. His temperament was ill-suited to teaching, but he took on apprentices and started giving regular talks to a growing audience nevertheless. In these talks he explained “biodynamic/French intensive” gardening not in terms of conventional organic chemistry - nitrogen, potassium, and so on - but in terms of his own distinct cosmology that he described as “alchemistic.” For Chadwick, horticulture was a spiritual endeavor, an encounter with the secrets of nature and the wisdom of God. He took immediate inspiration from Steiner, and adopted some of Steiner’s terminology, but he believed that Steiner stood in a long, continuous tradition going back to the ancient Greeks. Largely self-taught, and therefore eclectic, Chadwick wove together a philosophy of gardening based in the ancient system of the four elements and the three principles of alchemy, drawing upon Plato, Xenophon, Pliny, Ptolemy, Paracelsus and others. Much of his learning came from classical horticultural texts. He learnt Greek myth from the theatre but also from exploring the meaning of the botanical names of plants. This was the theoria that accompanied his practical methods. He didn’t care much for the hippys, and he couldn’t fathom why it was that the long-haired and unkempt youth of the campus were receptive to his nature-affirming spirituality – and he never claimed the guru role - but he developed and played to a following, an audience for new performances.

Chadwick’s ideas were revolutionary at the time. It was the climax of the anti-Vietnam era, flowers and peace. Chadwick’s amazing garden was a symbol defying the “grey culture” of industrial/technological America. He emphasized herbs at a time when herbs were rare in bland middle-class cuisine. He preached the virtues of fresh produce in an age when tinned food was supreme. His horticultural methods were innovative and sophisticated when organic gardening in America was crude and underdeveloped. His apprenticeship system changed the way horticulture was taught in America. He was a stranger in a strange land – cantankerous and difficult – but in Santa Cruz he became a man with a mission, a purpose in life. He once explained that he had spent most of his life in the “selfish pursuit of beauty”; unwittingly he now found that he was called upon to teach others and to show the beauty to them. He brought a message of visionary ecology:

Our requirements of living must be connected with exuberant childishness, an exuberant simplicity, an adoration of the great depths of simplicity in Nature. – p. 255

The garden at Santa Cruz was the first of many gardens that he created in America. He founded an organic garden for the Zen Centre of San Francisco, then moved to the East Coast and established a garden in Virginia. It was only in the last few years of his life that his students began recording his talks. Self-consciously Socratic, he frowned upon the “verbosity” of too much book learning and wrote little or nothing. He was a story-teller with an eccentric repertoire and a unique style. Recordings of some 270 of his talks survive today, and constitute his legacy; that is, aside from the many people who were inspired by him and the many students who have continued his horticultural work. He died of cancer in May 1980. He always claimed to be a Roman Catholic. He was buried at the rural property of the Zen Centre in San Francisco and a stupa was erected over his grave.

*** 

The horticulture of Alan Chadwick speaks for itself. It is an eminently rational, logical, clean system of high yielding optimum organic gardening. Chadwick set out to out-perform industrial agriculture using nothing but traditional hand tools. He was a craftsman. “Craft,” he said, “completes the art of God.” One of his students, John Jeavons, has streamlined the system into “biointensive” gardening which is used in a network of successful community projects in Third World countries. Jeavons has stripped away Chadwick’s spiritual vision and his “alchemy” and revealed that the actual horticultural method that Chadwick developed, leaving aside the theory, was one of profound utility. There is no question; Chadwick’s system works. Chadwick himself, though, said he was not setting out to “feed the millions”, in the first instance, but rather to bring beauty to the world, a Platonic enterprise arising out of an adoration of Beauty from which abundance is merely an overflow. His ultimate objective was to transform the earth into the garden of Eden. This vision was, for him, inseparable from the method. He felt he had achieved, he once said, a “huge marriage of vision and practice.” He means the alchemical marriage of spirit and matter. As he says,

Much of this was understood in the days when talking was very little and doing was quite a lot. There was the practice of alchemy.

His main contention, alchemically speaking, is that life can be drawn endlessly from the “invisible” in defiance of the laws of quantitative physics. He had discovered a cornucopia.

The pedigree of Chadwick’s approach to nature goes through Steiner to Goethe to Paracelsus and the alchemical science of Germanic romanticism, and then to the ancient Greeks. He has a deep appreciation of the cycles of the seasons and a reverence for the ever-changing flow and metamorphosis of nature. He explains the phenomenon of nature in terms of a threefold model: there is only One Reality but it consists of a visible and an invisible world, with an intermediate realm in between. This intermediate realm is of utmost importance. It is through it that the invisible manifests – miraculously – in the visible world. This is the role of soil between earth and air. It is also the realm of elemental beings, gnomes and sylphs and fairies, creatures of the inter-realm. In one of his talks he said:

Of course there are elves and fairies and undines! They are names. Names for what? For the magic that the four elements – earth, fire, air, water – bring about in the perpetual marriage of the invisible into the visible.

And for Chadwick, it is also the magic of theatre. A garden is a performance. A flower is a performance. The world is a stage. The underpinning metaphor in all of Chadwick’s metaphysics is: there is the lit stage and the dark theatre, and between them the proscenium. It is through the filter of the proscenium that the magical transformations happen. This, above all, is the key to understanding Chadwick.

It is also the model underpinning his method of observation which he described in the formula: “contrata – medito – contemplatio”. Concentration. Meditation. Contemplation. He refers to the archetypal realm as “idĂ©e” which man approaches through the exercise of “image”. He speaks of a phenomenon he calls “eleve”, spiritual uplift, which is a quality that can be brought to soil:

I am talking about an eleve of fertility, not necessarily a quantity of fertility. You can get it in gravel, you can get it in rock on the mountains, where all the trees will grow perfectly. I am not talking about quantity. I am talking about an eleve of fertility.

At the head of his stellar cosmology is the “revolutioninbus” consisting of the “prima mobile” and “secundus mobile.” He understands the plant world to be the sub-lunary manifestation of the planets, no less than are the metals. In fact, he had developed a quite comprehensive system of horticultural alchemy within his own cosmological framework in which he understands the planets shaping plants and flowers. He combines this, moreover, with an account of the archangelic orders and their manifestation in the seasons and the moods of the earth. The passage of the four seasons, in Chadwick, is the passing of the Grail between the four great Archangels. He amplifies this with illustrations of his teachings from an alchemical reading of the European Grail myths. There is a fifth Archangel in Chadwick’s system, to which he alludes, but about which he will not speak; he merely calls it “The Dove”, the greatest of all mysteries.

For Chadwick horticulture became his mode of understanding and expression. It was all-embracing:

Horticulture is the greatest of all crafts, the art of the creation of God…the garden leads into the whole of the vision of Nature.

His vision, which he shared almost as a pact with Countess von Maltke, was of a world and a mankind transformed by gardens. Chadwick made a good start. We should remember that this was in the context of the Cold War and an imminent World War Three. The United States and Russia were poised for nuclear oblivion and were engaged in obscene proxy wars around the globe. It was as a response to this that Alan Chadwick took up his spade and started a garden. He could envisage an alternative world. He believed that man could opt for Eden.

Have we not got expressways with millions of flying boxes? It is always possible to have the Garden of Eden.


In part, drawing upon Xenophon’s Socratic dialogue ‘Economy’ (Oikos nomia) he envisaged a Ghandian village-scale agriculture, but he understood it as a natural part of the alchemical tradition in which he saw himself:
Paracelsus said that the destiny and the duty of the gardener in living to produce his food, to produce his family, is to place his hand in paradise.

*** 

If it wasn’t for the symphonic wonder of his gardens, his prowess and his practical genius, Alan Chadwick might be easily dismissed as a crazy nature kook. He understood this. He once talked about how, when he was a teenager, other boys would tease him about being tutored by “that crank Rudolf Steiner.” Chadwick was a man who always found himself painfully different to everybody else. His world-view, his vision, was perfectly clear to him, however. A garden – like a stage - is a place of mystery. His fate, in the end, was to be the man who would expose something of that mystery to others. Just exposure to it would be transforming, he believed. As in alchemy, it is not the transmutation of metals but rather the transmutation of the alchemist that is important. Chadwick said:

The garden is all secrets. The whole miracle of the garden is made up of secrets, and I’ve been granted the chance to expose a few others to this incredible thing which, itself, is the teacher. It is, you see – though many people find the idea amusing – the garden that makes the gardener.

Gardening, for Chadwick, was an arena for transformations. He said, “Self must go if you wish to be a gardener.”

In one of his recorded talks, after Chadwick has expounded with Shakespearean flourish about his vision of a world of enchanted gardens, a member of the audience asks whether he was proposing reducing people to peasants and a peasant’s life. Chadwick, in revere - playing up to an audience that would often wonder if he was mad - exclaims: I am an incredible lunatic of the future! He was not proposing a return to the past. He could see the road ahead. In California, in the late 1960s and early 70s, there was a modern watershed and a new ecological consciousness, a new concern for natural farming, fresh food, reverence for nature and healthy living emerged. Alan Chadwick was in the middle of it. Although he had been born as a relic of an ‘Old World’ which had then been demolished by two appalling wars, Chadwick in America had somehow managed to become a man of the future.

I am an incredible lunatic of the future. Oh garden that I see! It is the most incredible garden. A pomegranate, it’s all made of emeralds and rubies. But that is a secret. You wouldn’t understand it. It will reveal itself…

R. Blackhirst

[A version of this article appeared in the weighty volume Alchemical Traditions (ed. Aaron Cheak), Numen Books. ]

- Chadwick

SHIN DO FU JI



This old Japanese phrase, quoted by George Ohsawa, might almost be the motto of this blog. Shindo fuji. Macrobiotics is rooted in this non-dual metaphysic. But other than its advocacy of organic agriculture - which was revolutionary in its time - macrobiotics has been disconnected from the land: I want to connect it again with the practicalities of working the soil.

It is impossible to divorce matters of health from matters of soil. Human health begins in the soil. The ultimate exponent of a viable soil ecology is Alan Chadwick, the master gardener, and the methods he called the 'Biodynamic/French Intensive' system. This system makes the perfect complement to macrobiotic cuisine. The two things go together: macrobiotic cookery and Chadwick gardening. The body and the earth are not two.

I have to say, though, that my experience of macrobiotic people too often reveals a wide ignorance regarding systems of soil cultivation. Their sentiment is correct: they want natural and 'organic' systems. But they are not aware of the great differences between various purportedly 'organic' systems. Many of them are advocates of so-called 'permaculture', for example. But they are unaware that permaculture - by definition - lends itself to a fruit-based diet and - again by definition - is opposed, in principle and in practice, to the growing of cereal grains as a human staple. Permaculture proposes an agriculture based upon perennial plants (fruit trees mainly) and so is entirely incompatible with a macrobiotic diet.

Similarly, health-conscious people use the word "organic" as a blanket term in the simplistic belief that all things organic are good. Actually, many "organic" products are quite poor in quality and have not been grown in a way that produces quality human food. Many 'organic' systems are sloppy and primitive. I have spent 30+ years investigating the various methods that full under the blanket term 'organic'. The best systems, in my opinion, are Rudolf Steiner's "biodynamics" (although, again, there is a lot of variation in that category - some BD produce is rubbish) and Alan Chadwick's modified BD system (often called "biotintensive").

When it is properly done, and all factors are taken into account, Chadwick horticulture is optimum and goes best with macrobiotics. Like macrobiotics, it is an intelligent reconstruction of the very best aspects of preindustrial methods.  I hope to explore these issues in later posts.

PUMPKIN CHOCOLATE MOUSSE


This is a variation upon a vegan recipe that was causing a stir on-line recently. The vegan recipe, however, was avocado based. I've substituted pumpkin for the avocado. Vegans and vegetarians do tend to plough through a lot of avocados in the mistaken belief that they are fabulously healthy. In fact, they are very oily or, in macrobiotic terms, very yin. They are also sub-tropical and so not entirely localized to the temperate zone climate in which I live. Working in a commercial restaurant - mainly in the production of salads - I see the great popularity of avocados. People want avocados with everything. For vegans it is a dairy food substitute. They like the smooth dairy-like consistency. Essentially, it is baby food. It speaks of a sort of brainless sensuality. Against the trend, I tend to go easy when it comes to avocado. In this case I've decided to redo this vegan recipe and make it avocado free. A big improvement in my opinion.

The original recipe called for one ripe avocado as the basis for the vegan mousse. I've used a cup of mashed pumpkin. Drain the pumpkin well. If it contains too much liquid to reach the right consistency then hang it in a muslin cloth to remove excess moisture.

INGREDIENTS

One cup of cold mashed pumpkin
One quarter cup of cocoa powder
One tablespoon of unhulled tahini
Two tablespoons of rice syrup
A good dash of oat milk
A teaspoon of natural vanilla extract
One good pinch of sea salt

METHOD

Mix all ingredients. Puree in a food blender. Chill.

The original recipe also used agave nectar. Like avocados this is now widely over-used by vegans and ill-informed healthy types. In fact, it is every bit as bad as corn syrup. I've used rice syrup - a grain syrup - instead at about half the quantity and added a pinch of salt - the salt helps the taste of the cocoa. The best rice syrup for this is the very thick stuff you can buy in Asian stores. It is almost hard at room temperature. Heat to use. The advantage is that you can use less of it but it helps the mousse set when refrigerated. Try to resist adding agar. Play around with quantities of rice syrup and cocoa instead in order to achieve the right mousse texture and consistency. Mine worked very well first time.

You could use carob powder instead of cocoa, but it takes much more liquid in that case.



Sunday 15 February 2015

SHIITAKE BROWN RICE

Brown rice is a staple of macrobiotic cuisine - the perfect food. The challenge, therefore, is to find sundry ways to prepare it and to construct meals around it. One of the surest complements to brown rice is the shiitake mushroom - a standard ingredient throughout Asian cookery. Brown rice with shiitake mushrooms is easy to prepare, nutritious and an excellent basis for hundreds of meals.


The method used here is straight forward. Take a solid-based cooking pot. Add a small quantity of any suitable oil such as sesame oil. Lightly saute the fresh shiitake mushrooms (destalked and halved if they are large). After a minute, add some mushroom stock (or any suitable vegetable stock) along with a pinch of sea salt. Simmer the mushrooms for another minute. 

Next add the required amount of precooked brown rice. Pressure-cooked short-grain organic or biodynamic rice is best, but in any case brown wholegrain rice. You should have a bowl of precooked, drained rice in the refrigerator at all times. 

Stir the rice and mushrooms together. Simmer until the stock is gone. 


This is your rice. It is the foundation of the meal. Then serve with any number of possible accompaniments including various pickles and steamed greens. It is one of the simplest and most centering macrobiotic meals. Once again, simplicity is a virtue. There is no need for complex and elaborate recipes. Keep it simple. Use simple, whole ingredients and gentle cooking methods. 






Thursday 5 February 2015

RED SPINACH


Leafy greens are an essential - but often overlooked - feature of cuisine macrobiotique. For reasons of health and for sundry other reasons leafy vegetables ought to be included in most meals. It is remarkable how few leafy vegetables are included in the average Western diet. Sometimes there is a bit of spinach and sometimes there is a bit of silverbeet, both usually cooked to death, and that is about all. This is another area in which Asian cultures have retained much stronger elements of tradition. When you venture into Asian grocery stores or Asian markets you are confronted by a whole array of odd leafy vegetables. They are commonly used in soups and stir-fries.

One that I have been experimenting with of late, precisely because it is available in abundance in the local Asian stores, is en choy or amaranthus tricolor. It is an edible amaranth leaf. See picture above. It is also called Red Spinach or Chinese Red Spinach, among many other common names. It can sometimes be found growing in local gardens as an ornamental, but the Chinese, Vietnamese and others use it as a vegetable. By taste it is not dissimilar to ordinary (English) spinach and can be used pretty much as spinach is used. Loosely chop it for inclusion in miso soup, or steam it as a wholesome side dish. I certainly recommend it. It is widely available in Asian stores and always very cheap, at least during summer because it is a plant that thrives in hot weather.

I am planning to grow it in future. I am told that it is not too fussy about soil conditions and is not overly thirsty for water. The Chinese people I've spoken to have been very helpful, as always, and can provide useful tips on growing, cultivating and cooking it. They have an obvious passion for it. I assume (but I'm not entirely sure) that it is frost tender, so it grows from spring through to autumn.

If you see it in Asian stores, give it a try. Most of our favourite leafy vegetables are brassicas - cabbage family. This makes a delightful - and colourful - change.

Wednesday 4 February 2015

RICE & BURGHUL CROQUETTES


This is an easy but delicious recipe adapted from Keith Michell's book Practically Macrobiotic. Keith Michell is an accomplished Australian actor and a long time enthusiast of cuisine macrobiotique, so much so that he was moved to write what is a very fine book about it. I recommend the book. Very comprehensive. I'II review it at a later date. It is full of excellent recipes and practical tips. This is a winning recipe, although after a few attempts I've amended it slightly.

INGREDIENTS

2 cups of cooked brown rice
1 cup of burghul wheat
A small handful of finely chopped basil
Half a cup of chopped broad-leafed parsley
1 cup of bread crumbs
A good pinch of sea salt

METHOD

Place the burghul in a bowl and just cover with boiling water. Cover the bowl and let stand for half an hour. The wheat should soak up all the water. A common mistake is to use too much water - just enough to cover the wheat is what is required.
Mix the burghul with the cooked rice.
Add the basil, salt and parsley.
With wet hands, mix and shape into croquettes.
Roll in the bread crumbs.
Brush a heavy pan or griddle with oil and saute gently.

The basil and burghul give these croquettes a Mediterranean taste. Serve with other Mediterranean or Middle Eastern dishes. In general burghul goes very well with brown rice in these proportions: one to two.

Best to use wholemeal bread crumbs. These can be difficult to purchase ready-made so you may need to make your own. Failing that, search for a brand free of chemical additives.

Tuesday 3 February 2015

PENNE & TWO LETTUCE SALAD


This is a simple but wholesome salad idea. There are many possible variations. The basic plan is to combine:

(a) a sea lettuce with
(b) a land lettuce and
(c) a pasta

In the picture above we have wakame sea lettuce with your standard iceberg lettuce and a wholemeal penne pasta, plus some roasted pine nuts. It's dressed with a simple sesame sauce.

I like the idea of combining a sea lettuce (seaweed) with a land lettuce - in this case iceberg, but you could just as easily use a cos lettuce or a butter lettuce or other lettuces. The combination of land and sea is delightful. It is a good combination by which to introduce people to the idea of eating seaweed. Add this, gently combining, to a pasta base - it could be any pasta of your choice. I think a wholemeal penne works very well. The roasted pine nuts - somewhat understated - add interest and sweetness. You could use other nuts - walnuts, cashews etc. according to your tastes. Dress it as you choose.

It's summer here in Australia. Salad time.

To use wakame: take a small handful of the dried seaweed. Cover in boiling water. Let sit and reconstitute for half an hour. Strain. Wash under cold water. Drain away excess liquid. Ready to use. Wakame sea lettuce is a wonderful ingredient in salad. Sea vegetables, remember, are very alkaline and help combat our otherwise very acidic diets.

Monday 2 February 2015

BEER BATTER TEMPURA


This is not the place to engage in controversies about the evils of alcohol. All forms of alcohol - like simple sugars - are exceedingly yin and are therefore unbalanced and dangerous. Accordingly, alcohol is usually listed as a no-no in macrobiotics. This is certainly so in therapeutic macrobiotics, which is to say macrobiotics for sick people. Robust, healthy people, on the other hand, may indulge in moderation - after all, George Ohsawa enjoyed his whiskey - and if so grain-based fermented drinks are the beverages of choice. All things in moderation.

In any case, this post is not about drinking alcohol, merely about using some beer (naturally brewed if possible) as a rising agent in tempura batter. Beer batter is an Australian favourite. It is a standard in popular cuisine, usually reserved for fish (and chips). Why not use it more diversely in the deep-fried tempura treats that often find a place in macrobiotic cuisine? I experiment with many forms of tempura batter. Some people will add self-raising flour and/or bicarbonate soda to help a batter fluff and crisp up. Beer (naturally brewed if possible) is a better choice. Bicarb soda is horribly yin too, but it is also a quite unnatural chemical. Beer yields a similar effect and is merely a fermented grain sugar - preferable on every count.


The standard recipe I use for beer batter tempura is:

2 tablespoons of plain flour
Half a cup of wholemeal flour
Add beer (naturally brewed if possible) until a batter consistency
A pinch of sea salt

The pictures above show the crisping effect, in this case on tempura zucchini (a glut of zucchinis in the garden at this time of year, i.e. lateish summer) and cauliflower. 

Yin? For sure. So, balance it with other (yang) things. The effect is crisp and rich, a summer treat. After cooking, of course, the taste of beer is largely gone and the alcohol has evaporated. Puritans will still avoid it perhaps, but it makes a truly delicious variation for tempura batter. Don't be tempted by self-raising flour or bicarb soda. Be tempted by beer batter instead. Tempura all your favourite vegetables (and/or seafood) this way.